Coventry Transport Museum

We had a family visit to the Coventry Transport Museum the other day - an interesting place and lots of visual interest for the kids. Not just rooms full of old cars lined up like some retro car park, the displays generally had some story to tell. One of the rooms covering local manufacturing included this Lister Autotruck, which reminded me of the Lister loco I built a couple of years back. This was designed as a self-powered factory trolley, but the loco and the vehicle shared the same design of engine and bonnet. 

I guess from it's condition and having probably spent more of it's life indoors (inside a factory) than a loco would have, that this example probably wears it's original paint, meaning I think I got the colour about right. I never noticed the orange strips on others though, I wonder if they were original?

One room featured transport toys, and whereas most of the museum featured vehicles that had links to the local area, or at least were historically significant, the displays in the toy section seemed much more random. One case included Egger and Lilliput HOe coaches amongst UK OO and continental HO trains .... odd!

An Outside Framed Chassis

At Narrow Gauge South I headed straight for the 009 Society second-hand sales stand. The society had acquired a batch of chassis from the Minitrains Fiddletown & Copperopolis Locomotive, these are 0-4-0 steam loco chassis with outside frames. Of course to narrow-gauge modellers outside frames chassis are very useful, but almost unknown as a ready-to-run chassis. I'd also heard they are excellent runners so I had to have one!

The outside frames, with flycranks, are obvious and nicely made. The cylinders are rather American in style, easily changed no doubt, but the frames are of the plate-type so ideal for a UK outline loco. The cow-catcher will have to go but the long screw (that would go down the chimney) holds the front of the chassis, so might need some thought!

With the rear-hung motor and flywheel you's guess it is a very rear-heavy chassis, and indeed it pulls wheelies well! However with just a lump of blu-tak on the cow-catcher to counterbalance it, the flywheel and low gearing ensure the chassis purrs along beautifully; smooth, slow, and quiet. This will be a useful loco - but what loco should I build on it?

My first thought was the large Hunslet I have - this was one of the locos built in my teenage years on an Ibertren chassis. It could do with being tidied up but the chassis isn't a great runner, and with inside frames and small wheels I've never been happy with it - it needs outside frames! However as you can see, with the Minitrains chassis positioned so the motor is in the cab, the wheels and particularly the cylinders are too far back, and will look wrong in relation to the smoke-box and chimney. Shame...

I've also tried a Hampton Water Works Kerr-Stuart body kit (I've got a partially complete one in my bits box), but that wasn't a good fit either - it might be possible but very tight. I've already seen Kerr Stuart Skylark kits built onto this chassis (by James Couling and Charlie Insley), but I've already got one of them as a tram loco. Steve at Narrow Planet had a test 3D print of another Hunslet to fit this chassis, so there's another possible option. Decisions...

Scenic 009 Layouts at Narrow Gauge South

The biennial Narrow Gauge South exhibition is always a good show, with a large number of layouts, traders, and a good atmosphere. This year it was the host of the 009 society AGM once again, and the show does have a definite bias to 009, although 7mm NG and other scales are represented too. This year I visited as a paying punter, which meant I had plenty of time to look around, take in the layouts, and chat to folks. Having been either exhibiting or with small child in tow at many exhibitions recently, that was a nice change!

Friend and Sussex Downs group member Martin Collins had taken his partially complete Ffestiniog Railway inspired "Llandercwyn Railway" to it's first proper show. With about half the layout largely complete it is clear that this will be a superb scenic delight, and Martin's locos and stock are to an equally high standard. Unsurprisingly with so little running in advance, there were some operational gremlins - mostly operator confusion I think!

Nic Arthur's "Torrisdale Railway" was also at it's first show, the layout is interesting in design. Out of the small terminus station the line turns away from the viewer and heads up a valley which can only be seen from the end. Watching the train weave through the trees towards you is rather novel.

"Ryedown Lane" by Pat Collins is a lovely Colonel-Stevens style terminus that has proved a popular layout at exhibitions, but as well as adding a sky backscene in place of the operator's shirts, Pat has added an extension with a through station; "Winterbourne Road". As you can see it has just the right atmosphere.

Prolific layout builder John Thorne premièred his "Bottle Kiln Wharf" layout, built to his usual style and high standard, with lots of details and glimpses through the trees. It's clear from this shot where the layout gets it's name. The kiln is from Skytrex by the way.

Another novel layout was "Dean Hill" by Jim and Lyn Owers, a montage of scenes from the Royal Naval Armaments Depot of that name. It's different to see a "modern image" NG freight line modelled (well, they've closed now, so I use the term modern in a relative sense!). The prototype has been well observed and the model is well detailed and executed. It also provides an "original" habitat for the Narrow Planet Baguley Drewry kit!

So there's a few highlights of some new layouts, but with (I made it) 26 layouts in total, it's just a brief glimpse. If you'd like to browse more photos click here.

Microtrains Uncoupling Tool

The Microtrains couplings generally work well, I've got practice at setting them up so they will uncouple over a magnet (usually!), and the magnets have to the the right strength and position. They couple up easily and don't give unwanted uncoupling. However if you need to uncouple where there is no magnet - such as in a fiddle yard - they can be a right pain. OK, you can do it by lifting one item of stock, but that isn't always desirable. So I thought I'd make a tool to help.

I think you can buy a tool like this in the US, but it isn't hard to make. I started with some plastic sprue from a kit, about 2mm diameter and roughly round, I shaped one end to a square section then tapered to a point. To make a handle a couple of diameters of plastic tube were used, then in the other end I stuck a tiny round magnet - only because I had one, and it allows the tool to hang from a steel screw in a convenient place.

To use it is simply pushed in between the couplings from above then twisted, the square section pushes the couplings open and apart. With lighter stock such as these wagons it takes care not to derail them, but gentle finger pressure on the stock can ensure they stay firmly on the track. However it works rather well and proved useful at Shepton Mallet, in fact I might make another because I am bound to lose it!

Quick-Fit Fiddle Yards

At the Arundel show I was chatting to Chris Ford about his recent posts on a "one-lift" layout, that is a single-board layout that is quick to erect at exhibitions, yet easy to transport. In particular he was asking for ideas for fiddle-yards that fold out, though as an alternative thought, I've built some fiddle yards that are separate but designed to be quick and easy to fit.

Awngate's fiddle yard does not fold out but is quickly fitted without bolts, catches, connectors, or additional support. In it's original location the fiddle yard could be connected overhanging the mantelpiece and there was no space or access for bolts or the like.

The side timbers of the fiddle yard board are extended beyond the end - the timber is about 12mm x 20mm I think. You can see the lead-track (for the cassettes) is soldered to PCB sleepers, and there are brass wire contacts protruding.

The fiddle yard board is simply slid into holes left in the end of the main board which are a tight fit (by being formed of the same timber). A firm press slides them in, and friction is enough to hold the board in place. Here you can see the drawer runners that the layout rested on, allowing it to be pulled clear of it's alcove.

Once pushed home the wire contacts have engaged with brass pads on the main board, so connecting the fiddle yard with power without the need for any connecting wires.

This shot of the whole layout shows the fiddle yard cantilevered from the main board (the shadow beneath it is the trestle support, but the fiddle yard does not touch it). Of course this fiddle yard is small (about 18" x 5") and not heavily loaded, but I guess Chris is planning for the same sorts of trains as I run, It's worth noting that if the board was hinged down from the end of the main board it would be taller than the main layout, and add weight.

As another idea, it has struck me that a sector-plate type fiddle yard does not really need a baseboard at all, just a pivoted support where it rotates (i.e. a bolt), and a sliding support to keep the tracks in alignment and prevent tilt. The sliding support could be as simple as layers of MDF or plastic, or perhaps something clever with aluminium channel. Here are some sketches (as Chris requested) to give some ideas:

The first scheme shows how the sector plate can be fitted to the corner of a baseboard with half (or more) of the sector plate overhanging the board. This would work where it can be hidden with scenic features, however to save giving any of the main board over to the fiddle yard, why not move the pivot off the board? The second scheme puts the pivot onto a small fold-down extension - although I have sketched this to be the full width of the baseboard it could of course be just a few inches wide. The third scheme has fold out arms to provide the pivot, I've shown two equal arms that link with a split hinge pin to hold them in the open position.

There are other arrangements that could be considered - a single hinge-out arm held in place with a catch, or perhaps a beam that pulls out of the main baseboard like a drawer. The sector plate could of course become a turntable by arranging the pivot in the centre and allowing it to rotate all the way round (but provide end-stops for the tracks!), or if you prefer just provide a fixed deck for simple sidings or cassettes.

My point is though, a fiddle yard does not need to be integrated to be quick to fit and light to transport, and can be added to a "one-lift" layout without taking up valuable scenic space. A secondary point is that fiddle yards need to be fit-for-purpose, but don't have to be over-engineered as many are; for example my cassettes made from plastic trunking work as well as any I've seen and are quicker to make (and lighter to handle) than elegant wood and aluminium designs.

Arundel Show

I got to the Wealden Railway Group's little exhibition in Arundel today, with both kids and (grand)parents in tow. I say little as it is in a small scout hut, but as the group concentrate on small layouts, they squeezed 11 layouts in, plus demo and static displays. It's always a friendly and welcoming show too, with a free cup of tea/coffee included in the entry price.

Svanda is a Norwegien (or was it Swedish?) HO layout by Nigel Hill and Chris Ford. Rural charm up to their usual excellent standard.

This was an excellent example of a shunting layout in OO - small, well scenic'd, and interesting to operate. I can't remember the name though!

What if the Isle of Wight had narrow gauge railways and happened to be located in the Caribbean? That was the concept behind Puerto Paseo.

Another EXPO challenge relic - this time a Pizza depiction of a French tramway by Simon Hargreaves.

For a fuller set of pictures click here - though I haven't yet downloaded the many pictures the kids took on their cameras. If you like blurry, over-exposed and indecipherable images let me know.

Meridian MPD18 Chassis Mk2

I mentioned back in November that I'd acquired two of the Meridian MPD18 chassis kits, but despite only having bought them a month apart, one was for the Mk1 design and the other the Mk2 design. I built the Mk1 already so I thought I'd build the Mk2 and see how it compared.

There are some important differences in the design:
1) Top-hat type bushes are supplied for the axles
2) The axles are fitted into the chassis from below after assembly with bushes and gears
3) The layshaft is assembled in it's own carrier and fitted to the chassis from above
4) The pick-ups are suggested to be fitted to the upper side of the chassis, as I did for the Mk1 but not as the Mk1 instructions suggested.
5) The brackets for fitting to the Meridian body kits that use this chassis are changed, and look much improved.

So here is the Mk2 assembled. No soldering is required except for the pick-up wires, and to attach the nut to the body fitting bracket (not shown), and can be put together in a couple of evenings' work. I did deviate from the instructions slightly:
- I used phosphor-bronze strip rather than the wire provided for pick-ups as I think it is more reliable with less drag
- I was concerned that the motor was not secure enough relying on the strap alone (there is no locating end-plate as on the Mk1) so used a little Bostik glue (the rubbery stuff) under the rear end.

Side by side (Mk2 on right) the obvious difference is the size of the motor, the newer one is small making the chassis narrower, though it is mounted higher so they are about the same height overall. The wheels are the same, I think they would look better and probably pick-up power better if they were of a larger diameter. A shorter wheelbase (or variable options) might give the chassis a wider appeal for other prototypes.

From the drive end (Mk2 on the left) it can be seen there is no motor locating plate, the newer design relies on the motor fitting into the chassis frames and the strap holding it secure. I think a locating plate as for the Mk1 design would be a good idea and the strap alone didn't seem to hold the motor securely enough.

From below the removable axles with bushes of the Mk2 (right) can be seen, the keeper plate is held in place by the bolt that secures the chassis to the body. As well as providing a better wear surface for the moving parts this design is a vast improvement in terms of assembly, as the worm-gears and the adaptor tubes (to go from 1.5mm dia axle to 2mm dia gear) can be super-glued in place before the axle is fitted to the chassis. The Mk1 chassis required holes to be drilled in the brass tube to let the super-glue in, then the tube and gear have to be glued to the axle as it is passed through the chassis - difficult to do, with a high risk of gluing the axle solid!

So overall the Mk2 version of this chassis is much easier to assemble and should be more durable and easier to service in the future.