This is the result of my efforts over the last couple of weeks then - three hand-built points. Other than some cosmetic quarry track in 009 (that was never intended to work, or tested to see if it would), this is my first effort at building my own track. I used the Roy Link (KBScale) templates but since I was going to be hiding the track, and I didn't want to protrude pins or moving parts through the baseboard, I decided on the traditional approach of soldering to copper-clad sleepers.
As I have said before I am not worried what the track looks like - it will all be buried or in-set. So the sleepers were spaced for convenience rather than appearance! As I had it to hand I used code 80 (N or 009) rail rather than the code 82 KBScale recommend - as that has a slightly wider head and foot it would probably look better, and the track gauges were a little slack on the code 80. You may also be able to see some "cheats" I have used - the blades are pivoted in fish-plates in a manner similar to some PECO points, I have fitted bent-wire "springs" to the tie bar to hold it and the blades in place (they don't really give an over-centre effect). There are thin wire jumpers to ensure electrical continuity to the blades from the frog, which will have a switched feed.
It has been relatively painless, using a slitting disc in a mini-drill to shape the rails, and I also now have a tub of flux - the first time I have used it, and it does make soldering much easier! However I did take my time, and spent plenty of it "fettling" - grinding rail away, checking gauge, pushing my one wagon through ... so far all seems to work!
5 comments:
This is a real adventure, isn't it?
It's one I've never got anywhere near to so I'm quite fascinated by what happens!
You don't need the fishplate pivots - the rail will bend quite well enough, or at least it does in OO. If you use Peco point motors, the over-centre spring in the adaptor plate will hold them over.
These look really good though. As you say, if the stock runs properly, nothing else matters !
It is certainly an adventure!
I'm sure you are right Phil but the blades on these points are very short - especially the tight radius one. Also I wasn't brave enough to pivot the blades at the tie bar, so without the fish-plate pivot the twist would shear the soldered solid joint there. The fishplate joints allow the whole blade to move longitudinally eliminating that stress.
The prototype Hudson track is hinged as well. I've done this sort of thing in O-14 and OO and the same rules don't apply - it's just too short a length of rail to flex.
They're looking good. Traction for this project?
Post a Comment